2019 Marcel Deiss Alsace Rouge Burlenberg, Alsace, France

ABOUT THIS WINE

A field blend of mostly Pinot Noir, but small amounts of co-planted Pinot Beurot. Vine age ranges from 25 to 45 years and are planted on a bedrock of Jurassic limestone with fossils and Quartenary-era flat limestone rocks. Ambient yeast fermentation. Aged for 24 months in barrels (33% new). The characteristics of Burlenberg come almost entirely from its terroir, which is similar in some ways to the Côtes de Nuits. This soil beautifully heightens the aromas of Pinot Noir and brings out a marked color, quality tannins, and a beautiful structure that allows for great aging potential. The small proportion of Pinot Beurot adds suppleness and lends elegance to the wine.

ABOUT THIS PRODUCER

No one will argue that Deiss is among the top two or three domaines of Alsace. As to the rest, Jean-Michel Deiss is what the French call, a fouteur de merde, a shit-stirrer. After an old man on his deathbed entrusted him with one of Alsace's gems, the Schoenenbourg vineyard, Jean-Michel found that it was planted to an old field blend or “co-plantation.” He soon realized that this was the missing link in his quest for great wine and he replanted every single one of his top vineyards to such blends. Though this had once been the norm in Alsace, by the time Jean-Michel planted his grand crus to field blends, it was a technique reserved to lowly wines. Then, he took on the Alsatian cru system. Too many grand crus, and too large at that, but no premier crus was idiotic, he thought, and he self-appointed seven of his top vineyards “premier crus.” When you taste them, it makes crystalline sense, but this is technically an illegal practice and Jean-Michel has been battling the authorities ever since. His latest concern is to have ancient but currently illegal Alsatian varieties added to the list of authorized grapes. A troublemaker indeed, but the wines are absolutely magical.