2023 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Chenevottes", Burgundy, France

ABOUT THE WINE

Les Chenevottes is one of Chassagne-Montrachet’s distinguished Premier Cru sites. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey’s cuvée draws principally from three parcels: one acquired by Pierre-Yves in 2002 and two originating with his father-in-law, Jean-Marc Morey. The 2023 blend is reported as 85% Chenevottes proper with the remainder from neighboring Les Bondues.

The 2023 is particularly expressive, opening with peach, nectarine, pear and citrus alongside abundant floral notes. With air, the domaine’s characteristic smoky reduction emerges, joined by toasted almond and a stony mineral quality. There is real substance through the middle of the palate, but the wine remains sleek and focused rather than opulent. Its ripe fruit is countered by freshness, fine phenolic grip and a distinctly austere mineral line that suggests it will become more expansive with bottle age.

The domaine’s white grapes are gently whole-bunch pressed, with must fermented in 350-liter barrels, including roughly 30% new oak. Élevage generally lasts 15–20 months depending on the cru, without bâtonnage, and the wines are bottled without filtration. This restrained approach allows texture to develop slowly while preserving freshness and the vineyard’s mineral character.

Although impressive in its youth, Les Chenevottes is built for further development; Jasper Morris suggests a drinking window of 2028–2034 for the 2023. Pair it with roasted turbot or halibut, lobster, scallops, roast chicken with morels, veal in a cream sauce, or aged Comté—the wine has enough depth for richer dishes while its acidity and mineral edge keep the pairing lively.

ABOUT THE PRODUCER

Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey was established by Pierre-Yves Colin, son of Marc Colin, and his wife Caroline Morey, daughter of Jean-Marc Morey. The project began in 2001, and today the domaine farms approximately 13 hectares across Saint-Aubin, Chassagne-Montrachet, Santenay, Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault. Chardonnay dominates production, accounting for approximately 92% of the domaine’s wines.

Pierre-Yves and Caroline place particular emphasis on preserving the health and longevity of their vineyards. Soils are cultivated or grassed depending on the site, while harvest timing seeks a precise balance between physiological ripeness and freshness. That same philosophy continues in the cellar through long, gentle pressing, larger-format barrels, extended élevage and the avoidance of bâtonnage.

The resulting wines have become renowned for their combination of concentration, smoky reduction, incisive acidity and mineral definition. Rather than emphasizing richness or oak, Colin-Morey uses careful élevage to reveal distinctions between individual Côte de Beaune terroirs. Les Chenevottes is an especially compelling expression of that philosophy: substantial enough to convey Chassagne’s natural power, yet shaped by remarkable freshness, precision and longevity.