2021 Domaine Le Guellec-Ducouet Gevrey Chambertin "Les Jeunes Rois", Burgundy, France

ABOUT THIS WINE

100% Pinot Noir from the "Les Jeunes Rois" lieu dit in Gevrey-Chambertin. Vines planted in 1965. Only 1,200 bottles produced.

ABOUT THIS PRODUCER

The force of gravity is more intense in Burgundy. Why else would time move so slowly there?

Occasionally, a domaine will pass from father to daughter, or from mother to son. Sometimes a few rows of vines may be sold from one grower to another. But as the sun sets over the top of the region’s south-east facing slopes, it sets on the same patchwork of Grand Crus, Premier Crus and Village wines generation after generation. Romanée-Conti is Romanée-Conti, and Chambertin is Chambertin.

Yet spend enough time amongst the vines and occasionally you’ll spot an anomaly.

In Gevrey-Chambertin, the anomaly is a young man with a look that’s more Santa Barbara County than Hospices de Beaune: hipster beard, possibly a sleeve tattoo under his plaid shirt, an easy, laid-back personality. It’s Michael Le Guellec

Definitely not part of the old guard, but scratch below Michael’s surface and you’ll find that his vineyard land has been in his family since 1920, with some of his oldest vines planted just ten years later.

You’ll find a respect for tradition – for Michael’s winemaking grandfather of course, but also for the terroir, for the environment, and for the style of wines typical of Gevrey-Chambertin: rich, flavoursome, powerful and muscular, yet with incredible finesse. Pinot Noir that can only come from one place on earth.

Now, the domaine is still unknown. Since Michael’s grandfather retired in 1990, winemaking has been on the backburner, and it’s only since Michael took over with his friend Arnaud Ducouet in 2018 that the renaissance has begun.

That the domaine is already producing such exquisite wines is no accident. With winemaking overseen by Pierre Millemann, it was no surprise when we tasted at the domaine last autumn that the wines are luscious and elegant. This is a grower destined to become one of the must-haves of Gevrey-Chambertin.

For the time being, just a few thousand bottles are being made each vintage – from Clos Champ, the only walled vineyard in the lieu dit (planted in 1930) and from Les Jeunes Rois (planted in 1965). Other vineyards are being reworked before they’ll be considered worthy to produce wines under the domaine’s label.

Eventually around 15,000 bottles could be made – and the whole world will want them. These are fabulous wines being made by imaginative, energetic and passionate young people who want to carry their region forward, while remaining true to its history. They’re also an absolute steal... for now.