2022 Michel Lafarge Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France

ABOUT THIS WINE

From one parcel, Petit Pré, facing southeast, clay and limestone soil, planted in 1966-1977. 2 weeks maceration with indigenous yeast fermentation. Aged for 18 months in older barrels. Certified organic (Ecocert) and biodynamic (Demeter).

These vines are located lower down on the hill, with equal distance between the village of Volnay and the route national, on the limit of Volnay village and Bourgogne regional appellations. There is some talk that this parcel used to be classified a Volnay but was de-classified for some reason, though talking to Frédéric, it's been considered Burgundy-level since as long as he remembers. Regardless, ignoring official classification hierarchy, this wine is, as Russell puts it, a "baby Volnay": single-vineyard, might-as-well-be-Village-level wine with that typical Volnay limestone terroir. Entry-level pricing with a roundness that makes it approachable and easier to drink younger.

ABOUT THIS PRODUCER

Domaine Lafarge was run for the last 60 years by the legendary Michel Lafarge. Frédéric, his son, starting in 1978.  As of 2018, they have been joined by the next generation, Clothilde Lafarge, daughter of Frédéric and Chantal.

This domaine is famous for producing some of the greatest traditional Volnays, from biodynamic farmed vineyards.The domaine traces its history back to the early 19th century, the iconic Clos du Château des Ducs having been bought in 1900 by Michel Lafarge’s father. The first wines bottled at the domaine in 1934 included Clos des Chênes, the domaine’s largest Volnay premier cru holding and one of the village’s flagships.  The domaine consists of over 11.6 hectares under vine, most of them in Volnay and Beaune, including a 0.9 hectares holding of Clos des Chênes and many top 1er cru vineyards in the appellation.

The vinification is traditional with 100% destemed grapes, and the elevage is done using very low percentage of new oak (around 5%) and are famous for their great transparency of their respective teroirs.  Michel and Frédéric converted to biodynamic viticulture in 1996 and the domaine is now at the forefront of the movement.