2023 Domaine A. et P. de Villaine Rully 1er Cru “Rabourcé”, Burgundy, France

ABOUT THE WINE

Rabourcé occupies the highest and warmest hillside at the northern end of the Rully appellation, positioned in the opposite orientation to its neighboring Raclot and Cloux climats—a geographic peculiarity reflected in the vineyard's name. Its combination of significant sunshine and white clay in the soils gives this Chardonnay both breadth and a distinctive chalky character.

The 2023 is particularly expressive, opening with floral notes, lemon, and fresh fruit before revealing chalk, subtle toast, and greater richness with air. The palate is rounded and fleshy, yet the wine never loses its underlying freshness. Fine acidity and mineral tension balance its concentration, while impressive aromatic persistence gives the finish both power and energy. The domaine considers the wine's density and mineral structure particularly promising for further bottle development.

Vinification is deliberately restrained to preserve Rabourcé's individual character. The 2023 was vinified predominantly in large wooden foudres, with less than 8% new barrels. This contributes a discreet toasted nuance without obscuring the Chardonnay's fruit, floral character, or chalky minerality. The result is a white Burgundy that marries the natural generosity of its warm site with the finesse and freshness expected of a top Rully Premier Cru.

Serve at approximately 12–14°C rather than overly chilled, allowing its aromatic breadth and texture to emerge. The domaine recommends foie gras, white meats, and firm cheeses; it would also pair beautifully with roast chicken, veal, richly prepared fish, scallops, or aged Comté.

ABOUT THE PRODUCER

Domaine de Villaine is based in Bouzeron at the northern end of Burgundy's Côte Chalonnaise. Established by Aubert and Pamela de Villaine in the early 1970s, the estate became closely associated with the revival of Bouzeron and the recognition of Aligoté Doré as capable of producing serious, terroir-driven Burgundy. Its holdings have since expanded to encompass distinguished sites in neighboring Rully and Mercurey.

Today, under the direction of Pierre de Benoist, the domaine continues to emphasize organic farming, careful manual vineyard work, and restrained cellar practices. Rather than pursuing power through extraction or conspicuous oak, the estate seeks to reveal the individual personality of each climat through healthy vineyards, balanced ripeness, and patient élevage.

The Rully Premier Cru holdings are an important part of this philosophy, demonstrating the considerable diversity possible within a relatively compact appellation. Rabourcé stands apart for the warmth of its exposition and its white-clay soils, producing one of the domaine's more opulent white wines without sacrificing the freshness, precision, and mineral definition that remain signatures of Domaine de Villaine.