2020 Seckinger Peterhöhle Riesling, Pfalz, Germany

ABOUT THIS WINE

Petershöhle, literally Peter’s Cave, is the pride of the Seckinger family. Over 30 years ago, Papa Seckinger began restoring these ancient terraces that lie in the upper most part of the larger Herrgottsacker premier cru. His task was huge, but the results are impressive.

The woodland air here is cool and invigorating, only a chiaroscuro of sun reaches the mostly red sandstone soils. Crisscrossed by large fruit trees and steep embankments, a thick forest frames this special vineyard, which looks down on the Pfalz town of Deidesheim below.

The Petershöhle is the most intellectually demanding Rieslings from Seckinger: firm, concentrated and quite wild. Also in 2020, the Petershöhle has again received several days of maceration, the whole grapes were mashed with the feet in the harvest boxes and pressed after 2-3 days.

Botanical, sage and thyme; kaffir lime, verbena; a finish that starts knife like and then becomes a spicy capiscum – Tourbillion fireworks – finale.

ABOUT THIS PRODUCER

Seckinger’s wines have some producers in southern Pfalz scratching their heads, meanwhile Germany’s new generation of sommeliers are sipping gleefully. Was geht? Here’s a biodynamic Pfalz producer taking cues from the natural Chablis and Jura ouillé or topped-up contingent, as it digs into the terroir of their historic vineyards of mostly red sandstone (buntsandstein). Aber hallo! Seckinger’s making some outstandingly rakish wines bone dry, hazy and savoury!

Falstaff Magazine says about Jonas Seckinger: You can confidently count him among the protagonists of a precocious and well-trained generation of winegrowers who know exactly what they want: his wines already look amazingly mature and stylish. Seckinger produced his first wine at the age of 17, initially experimenting with an old wooden press in his parents' garage.

Joined by his brothers Lukas and Philipp, they farm 20 hectares near Deidesheim. Their farming is certified organic and practicing biodynamic.