2022 Von Winning Riesling "Ungeheuer" Grosses Gewächs, Pfalz, Germany
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ABOUT THIS WINE
The famous Ungeheuer is located above the city of Forst in the middle of the slope that rises from 125 to 180 metres a.s.l. toward the Haardt hills. The gentle slope incline of 30 percent faces east and southeast providing optimal warming. The soil is quite diverse and heterogeneous and includes a bit of volcanic basalt rock in some areas. The soil is otherwise dominated by weathered variegated sandstone with clay, limestone, and limestone rubble. Good available water capacity provides vines with optimal moisture and minerals. Riesling is the sole variety planted here. History: The Bavarian land parcel classification of 1828 categorized this site as a top vineyard. The Chancellor of the German Empire Otto von Bismarck (1815-1898) commented on the wine with the following statement: “Dieses Ungeheuer schmeckt mir ungeheuer,” which can be translated to “This colossal tastes colossally good”. From that point onward the site, became world famous. The name “Forster Ungeheuer” stems from a government scribe named Johann Adam Ungeheuer in Deideshem in 1699.
Spontaneous fermentation in 500L barrels, left on the gross lees for 18 months.
ABOUT THIS PRODUCER
The fact that this estate is crafting some of the very best dry wines in Germany is no fluke, rather a result of nearly obsessive winemaker Stephan Attman’s commitment to both dedicated cultivation of Deidesheim and Forst’s best sites and meticulous work in the cellar. Von Winning maintains some of the oldest parcels in Grosses Gewächs vineyards smattered across Forst, Deidesheim, and Ruppertsberg. Attman’s every decision is informed by great enthusiasm and experiences at estates in the Cote d’Or and abroad. For example, Attman’s newer vines are planted at a very high vine density- 9500 vines per hectare, as opposed to the typically under 5000. This creates competition amongst the vines, forcing the roots to grow deep, naturally reducing yields. Attman has adopted the single cane trellising system, prevalent in Burgundy, and Grosses Gewächs wines ferment in 500mL French barrels. Von Winning practices organic and sustainable viticulture.
Attman describes his winemaking as “not doing the wrong thing at the wrong time.” The estate’s premium wines are treated with a minimalist approach and with the highest respect in the cellar. Gentle clarification, natural and spontaneous fermentation and the abandonment of fining agents create wines with a distinctive indigenous and very elegant style. Pumping the juice or wine is never necessary in the gravity flow winery, allowing for minimal, and gentle vinification.