2016 A. Margaine “Special Club” Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru, Champagne, France

ABOUT THIS WINE

The vintage Blanc de Blancs [the “Spécial Club” bottling] from this grower based in the little-known village of Villers-Marmery at the far eastern end of the Montagne de Reims is refined, incisive, and vinous, built on understated lemon fruit, and acquiring tantalizing walnut-butter notes with time.

This 100% chardonnay, this 2014 vintage comes from Villers-Marmery 1er Cru, Levois, Grand Arbe, Montmedy & ruelles vineyard sites in chalk and clay soils. Margaine uses 20% malo and elevage is 80% stainless stell with 20% oak barrels. Sur latte for 60 months and desgorement date is January 2021.

ABOUT THIS PRODUCER

This is a small, family owned estate in the Premier Cru village of Villers-Mamery. This is a unique village; though it is in the Montagne, exposition and very chalky soil make it ideal for growing Chardonnay. Over ninety percent of the village is planted to that variety. Arnaud Margaine, the current proprietor, took over in 1989 and is the fourth generation grower-producer in his family. His daughter, Mathilde has recently come back to the domaine to help with operations. Today, the family farms 6.5 hectares, all in Villers-Marmery. Margaine has been a member of the Spécial Club since 1977and his Club wine is always a Blanc de Blancs from his oldest parcels in the village. The average age of the vines are over 35 years, with Champs d’Enfer over 60. Vineyard work here is meticulous, and precludes any herbicides and pesticides with a focus on balance. Cover crops are used extensively and Arnaud has thought aboutcertifying organic, though he has not yet made this decision. Margaine continues to experiment, in- troducing a Solera Cuvée last year as well asan excellent Rosé de Saignée from a small amount of Pinot Noir co-macerated with- Chardonnay. Vinification is in both barrel and stainless steel, depending on the parceland the wine. “A maximum of 20 to 30 percent [of barrel-fermented wine] is a good complement for my blends,” says Arnaud. “I don’t want to go any higher.” Arnaud keeps a large proportion of reserve wine, some of which is held in tank, with a percentage held in magnum with a slight mousse a la Bollinger. “They are rich in flavor without being heavy, and over the last decade and a half that I have been drinking them I feel that they have progressively gained in finesse and complexity. Capable of an intensely pronounced expression of terroir, Margaine’s champagnes represent for me the reference point for the village of Villers-Marmery.” -Peter Liem,