2016 Paolo Bea "Arboreus" IGT Umbria Bianco, Umbria, Italy

Arboreus is finessed and floral with notes of crystallized ginger, dried flowers and a dusting of sweet spice. It’s silky and round on the palate, coating all that it touches with vivid apricot and hints of young kiwi; a staining of minerality mounts toward the close. This finishes long, lightly structured and with cheek-puckering tension, as a sweet and sour interplay of citrus plays out.


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“Arboreus” is made from a Trebbiano clone known as Trebbiano Spoletino which is trained so that the fruit hangs high above the ground. The vineyards are planted in the low hills between Trevi and Montefalco at an elevation of 650 to 700 feet with a range of parcels facing both to the east and to the southwest. The soil is essentially clay and gravel. Harvest generally occurs during the first two weeks of October. The wine is left in contact with the skins for up to three weeks or more and is then aged in stainless steel tanks for at least two years prior to bottling. Sulfur is never added. Annual production is in the range of 3000 bottles.


Azienda Agricola Paolo Bea is a classic Italian fattoria, producing wine, raising farm animals for trade and working the land to produce olives, fruits, and vegetables. At the time Neal began working with the family in the late 1980s, a young and ambitious Giampiero Bea was learning the ropes alongside his father Paolo a farmer from Umbria. Paolo produces shockingly expressive wines using the bare minimum of technology, and while these staunchly old-school wines were out of step with the modernization, they resonated deeply with Neal and with our clients—and they continue to do so decades later. Giampiero has long been at the helm of Azienda Agricola, Paolo Bea and his commitment to healthy farming and low-intervention cellar work has made him a pillar in the Italian natural wine community. But it is Paolo’s approach that seem instinctual and it guides the estate to this day, given voice and definition through Giampiero’s remarkable work.


Farming Biodynamic