2021 Domaine Moreau-Naudet Chablis 1er Cru "Montmains", Burgundy, France

ABOUT THIS WINE

Their parcel of Montmains is small, just 0.65 hectare, and made up of on average 55 year old vines planted in a soil rich in blue clay (bleu d'argile). The domaine has one plot in Montmains itself, two in, Butteaux and one in Vieux Mulot, old vines across the piece. Montmains is on the opposite flank of the valley to Vaillons. Montmains sees less oak. Only about 10%, whereas the rest see about 30%.

ABOUT THIS PRODUCER

Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was a vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.

The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).

Virginie is now really totally confident in her role here, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.