2020 Boheme "Taylor Ridge Vineyard" Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California, USA

ABOUT THIS WINE

Taylor Ridge Vineyard was planted in 1999 on a hundred-year-old meadow, 4.9 miles from the Pacific Ocean. The caramel-colored sandy loam soil derives from a prehistoric marine embayment that once covered west Sonoma County, California. During the growing season, cool fog from Tomales and Bodega Bays engulfs the vineyard—a climate that slows nutrient uptake by the vines, and slows ripening of the fruit.

The 2020 crop of petite, golden Wente clone clusters was hand-harvested September 13th with a yield of 2.45 tons per acre. After whole-cluster pressing, the juice was fermented in seasoned French Oak barrels, aged sur lie 20 months, with complete Malolactic Fermentation.

ABOUT THIS PRODUCER

Driving the backroads of the southern Sonoma Coast, Beitler has his trio of leased vineyards, all windy and poor-soiled (both qualities excellent for making lower-alcohol, balanced Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays). 

Bohème produces only about 1,500 cases per vintage, and that’s in a good year on the perpetually rugged coast. His troika of vineyards (soon to be four)—English Hill, Taylor Ridge and Stuller— produce grapes with somewhat disparate attributes derived from their particular terroir. For instance, while grapes from one might contribute salty, licorice flavors, others may be more floral and grapes grown on the third might display more fruit or less acidity.

Beitler maintains a style that keeps the wines in check—no trifle, given the often-harsh conditions the coastal terrain bestows, which at once can be damning and a blessing. That is, they are exquisitely flowery, delicate on the palate and always have spritely acids that are as brisk as they are cleansing. Bohème Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are in the 13.5 to 14.3% alcohol range—low by California standards. When conditions bring lots of rain, cold and searing winds, the fruit can hold back its sweet delights, thereby elevating the acid levels to puckery-ness. But in the hands of a sensitive soul such as Beitler, the results can be gorgeous.

Part of the beauty of growing grapes close to the ocean, he explains, is that there’s a long growing season without accumulating sugars fast, and the wines are able to maintain complexity. “There’s a lot of pressure on New World producers for explosiveness, and Pinot Noir is no exception. Many take great pains to darken the wines, concentrate the flavors, soften the acidity.”