2022 Domaine Moreau-Naudet Chablis 1er Cru "Forêts", Burgundy, France

ABOUT THIS WINE

The Domaine's holdings in Forets is made up of two parcels, totaling just under 2 hectares. The older parcel is of 60 year old vines and is right next to Vincent Dauvissat's holdings. The second is made up of younger vines (25 years old) and is next door to Raveneau's parcel of Forets. Forets identity among the geologically diverse premier crus in Chablis is one of notable power and intensity. It's soil is made up of a variety of different clays and decomposed rock over limestone which together with a southeastern exposure create a warm microclimate.

ABOUT THIS PRODUCER

Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was a vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.

The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).

Virginie is now really totally confident in her role here, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.