2020 Weingut Brand Pet-Nat Rosé, Pfalz, Germany

ABOUT THIS WINE

The rosé is mostly Pinot Noir with 10% Portugieser and has only a mere 10.5% alcohol. The fermentation of each wine starts spontaneously with wild yeasts. After the fermentation a long time on the lees is obligatory. The decision to bottle the wine isn’t based on a fix date, each wine needs its own time and the decision to bottle is only made by taste. The natural wines are produced without any additives and without any filtration. This generates lively wines.

ABOUT THIS PRODUCER

The Brand brothers are electrifying their little town and this forgotten region. And they are doing so with huge smiles, a raucous joy – even downright excitement – in their role as stewards for the land.

It’s a rather curious blend of youthful exuberance, a surplus of energy and an unflappable belief in the future of viticulture in their vineyards, tempered by a maturity that is surprising given their ages (Daniel was born in 1990; Jonas in 1994).

If in some way the brothers, and their unique, crystalline natural wines, seem to have come out of nowhere, there is a context here. Their father, Jürgen, was one of the first advocates for environmentally conscious agriculture, joining an important organic organization in 1994. However, it wasn’t until Daniel came into the winery in 2014 that they made the transition to organic viticulture. Starting with vintage 2018, they are certified organic. They are also pursuing parts of the biodynamic philosophies, with the very real desire to understand and integrate its principles, without necessarily blindly following the ideology. The brothers, for their own parts, have worked with a bevy of “who’s who” producers including Lise and Bertrand Jousset in the Loire, and Alwin Jurtschitsch in Austria’s Kamptal.

In the years since, the Brand brothers have quietly experimented more and more with 0-sulfur winemaking. Some were, right from the start, nearly perfect. The Pet-Nats are riveting, ultra-light testaments to what this region is capable of; in the already-saturated world of Pet-Nat, they have a dedicated following and disappear quickly. The rather long and eccentric list of 0-sulfur “Pur” wines that the brothers released with vintage 2018, reflects a lot of experimenting, both in the vineyards and in the cellars. It is still a work in progress, though a number of wines are already sure-footed and captivating, unique testaments to a world beyond Riesling. The “Wildersatz” field blend is saline and lemon pith; it is as vibrant as spring water. The Pinot Blanc Pur is classic, the high-toned florality and rounded curves flaunting the inherent breed of the grape. The “Cuvée Flora,” an old-vine Dornfelder cuvee, is one of the most riveting wines of the portfolio, in my opinion. An inky, jet-black red with the soul of an herbal red from the Loire, with all that moist dark soil, stones and herbal fruit.