2022 Domaine du Pélican Arbois "Grand Curoulet", Jura, France

ABOUT THIS WINE

Domaine du Pélican purchased this parcel of Grand Curoulet in 2012 from Jean-Marc Brignot. Prior to Brignot, it was owned by Robert Aviet, a well-known name in Arbois.

Grand Curoulet is one of the very best terroirs of Arbois. It is a North-facing parcel located on the side of a hill that dominates Arbois and the plaine de la Saône. Grand Curoulet is also believed to be where the first vines of Arbois were planted. Due to its North facing exposition and windy location, Grand Curoulet usually matures later than the other terroirs of Domaine du Pélican.

Domaine du Pélican’s parcel of Grand Curoulet is just under 5 hectares in size. The original plan in 2012 was to salvage the parcel’s many 60+ years vines but after one vintage, it became clear that the parcel needed to be rehabilitated and that salvaging the old vines was not going to be possible. The following year, the process to uproot the entire parcel started.

The parcel was replanted in 2015 with Savagnin (two thirds) and Chardonnay (one third). Savagnin was the predominant planting since Grand Curoulet is a terroir that is better suited for Savagnin. The soil is made of grey marls (about half the parcel) and multi-colored marls (green and red) from the Triassic period. These are the oldest marls found in the Jura.

At harvest, the grapes are lightly crushed before being pressed and fermentation is in foudres and barrels. One third of the crop macerates on the skins for one night before being pressed. Aging is in 500L barrels with no new oak.

ABOUT THIS PRODUCER

The history and worldwide reputation of Burgundy and the Jura couldn't be more different. While Burgundy's vineyards have been carefully delineated over centuries and pricing has placed them atop the most collectible fine wines in the world, the Jura has remained quietly tucked in a sleepy corner of France an hours drive east. Jura certainly has its enthusiasts, but for the most part the wines have been sold in France. One evening at a Parisian restaurant a blind tasting of a single wine set in motion a series of events that may ultimately be the turning point for the Jura.

Guillaume D' Angerville, of the Domaine Marquis d' Angerville estate in Volnay, is at the helm of one of Burgundy's elite and storied estates, with roots dating back to 1507.

D' Angerville's arrival in the Jura was initially met with skepticism from the locals. A Burgundian coming in search of vineyards to purchase was not something those in the town of Arbois were thrilled about. There's a more insular feeling in the Jura where so many of the wines are kept local that outsiders, even from nearby, are met with a suspicious eye. However, Guillaume's true fondness for the wines and the history of the small region revealed itself quickly. He made it clear his goal was to bring a worldwide awareness to the great, and incredibly unique wines of the Jura.

Several properties were subsequently purchased, and organic and biodynamic viticulture was implemented immediately. Included were the famed holdings of Jacques Puffeney, who had recently retired. And with the 2012 vintage the wines of Domaine du Pélican were released, the name deriving from the pelican that graces the crest of town of Arbois. Something tells me that Parisian sommelier enjoys recounting this story quite a bit each time a guest orders the Pélican wines.