NV Champagne Aubry et Fils Brut Rosé, Champagne, France

ABOUT THIS WINE

The blend is 40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir (2% vin rouge), 20% Meunier, 5% Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Fromenteau and Pinot Blanc. The base is 70% 2021, 30% reserve wine back to 1998. The grapes are from from the villages of Jouy-lès-Reims 1er Cru, Villedommange 1er Cru, Pargny-lès-Reims 1er Cru, Coulommes-la-Montagne 1er Cru. Aged mostly in stainless steel with a portion of the Chardonnay aged in used barrique. Aged 36+ months on the lees.

ABOUT THIS PRODUCER

Philippe Aubry works with his brother Pierre and brother-in-law Noël Poret and has been trying to give expression to Champagne’s indigenous varieties such as Arbanne and Petit Meslier, as well as Pinot Gris (the local name is Fromenteau) and Pinot Blanc.

One of the most original estates in Champagne, Aubry Fils is located in the village of Jouy-lès-Reims, in the western sector of the Montagne de Reims. Of the estate’s 15 hectares of vines, 12 lie in Jouy and the nearby villages of Pargny-lès-Reims, Villedommange and Coulommes-la-Montagne, all of which are classified as premier cru; the other three hectares are located elsewhere and are sold off to the négoce.

Proprietors Pierre and Philippe Aubry are twin brothers, although after a few visits it’s easy to tell them apart: Pierre says very little, and always seems to have a lit cigarette; while Philippe (pictured) is garrulous and inquisitive, as interested in what you have to say about the wines as he is in showing them to you. In fact, the Aubrys have a little tasting notebook that they pull out every time they host visitors, and Philippe will ask you to describe all of the flavor associations that you find in the wines and fastidiously write them down.