2019 von Winning "MarMar" Riesling Trocken, Pfalz, Germany
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ABOUT THIS WINE
Ungeheuer is in Forst, and is a SE facing slope consisting of volcanic basalt with optimal water supply and nutrient decomposition. The soil structure is complex—set on an ancient coral reef with chalky red sandstone with volcanic basalt soils. 'MarMar' is less than .25 ha, a limestone rich parcel inside of the Ungeheuer Grosse Lage site. Production of MarMar is just three 500L barrels and aged for 24 months, on the full lees, like all GGs at this agency.
Spontaneous fermentation in 500L barrels, left on the gross lees for 24 months.
ABOUT THIS PRODUCER
The fact that this estate is crafting some of the very best dry wines in Germany is no fluke, rather a result of nearly obsessive winemaker Stephan Attman’s commitment to both dedicated cultivation of Deidesheim and Forst’s best sites and meticulous work in the cellar. Von Winning maintains some of the oldest parcels in Grosses Gewächs vineyards smattered across Forst, Deidesheim, and Ruppertsberg. Attman’s every decision is informed by great enthusiasm and experiences at estates in the Cote d’Or and abroad. For example, Attman’s newer vines are planted at a very high vine density- 9500 vines per hectare, as opposed to the typically under 5000. This creates competition amongst the vines, forcing the roots to grow deep, naturally reducing yields. Attman has adopted the single cane trellising system, prevalent in Burgundy, and Grosses Gewächs wines ferment in 500mL French barrels. Von Winning practices organic and sustainable viticulture.
Attman describes his winemaking as “not doing the wrong thing at the wrong time.” The estate’s premium wines are treated with a minimalist approach and with the highest respect in the cellar. Gentle clarification, natural and spontaneous fermentation and the abandonment of fining agents create wines with a distinctive indigenous and very elegant style. Pumping the juice or wine is never necessary in the gravity flow winery, allowing for minimal, and gentle vinification.