2020 von Winning "Kieselberg" Riesling Grosses Gewächs, Pfalz, Germany
Astoundingly complex, wild yet elegant and produced using spontaneous fermentation in large wooden barrels. Notes of lime, white pepper and faint mandarin peel lead into a fleshy palate with good backbone with a long finish.
ABOUT THIS WINE
Kieselberg is located on a flat, high plateau above Deidesheim in the wind shadow of the Haardt hills. The 15.7-hectare south-facing site rises from 125 to 145 meters at a slope of 3 to 15 %. Well-exposed, yet protected it usually yields highly ripe grapes. The soils of are diversely structured. The typical regional weathered Bunter sandstone includes fist-sized sandstone as well as loamy sand and rubble. History: The Royal Bavarian Land Classification of 1828 categorized the Kieslberg as one of the best in the Pfalz.
Spontaneous fermentation in 500L barrels, left on the gross lees for 24 months.
ABOUT THIS PRODUCER
The fact that this estate is crafting some of the very best dry wines in Germany is no fluke, rather a result of nearly obsessive winemaker Stephan Attman’s commitment to both dedicated cultivation of Deidesheim and Forst’s best sites and meticulous work in the cellar. Von Winning maintains some of the oldest parcels in Grosses Gewächs vineyards smattered across Forst, Deidesheim, and Ruppertsberg. Attman’s every decision is informed by great enthusiasm and experiences at estates in the Cote d’Or and abroad. For example, Attman’s newer vines are planted at a very high vine density- 9500 vines per hectare, as opposed to the typically under 5000. This creates competition amongst the vines, forcing the roots to grow deep, naturally reducing yields. Attman has adopted the single cane trellising system, prevalent in Burgundy, and Grosses Gewächs wines ferment in 500mL French barrels. Von Winning practices organic and sustainable viticulture.
Attman describes his winemaking as “not doing the wrong thing at the wrong time.” The estate’s premium wines are treated with a minimalist approach and with the highest respect in the cellar. Gentle clarification, natural and spontaneous fermentation and the abandonment of fining agents create wines with a distinctive indigenous and very elegant style. Pumping the juice or wine is never necessary in the gravity flow winery, allowing for minimal, and gentle vinification.